Technical information

T4 bridle changes

For kites prior to Feb 2008. For the 3 point bridle, move the tow point out by 18mm. This helps straight line stability and fades; but allows too much slack on the inhaul, so the kite pitch changes too much under load. The original bridle already has knots on the inhaul - make a link line between the knots to take out the slack. You can fine tune this; if the link is too short it becomes difficult to de-power the kite. This bridle tweak works on any kite with a long inhaul (like the T2 and the Fury).

For the SUL and UL we've found a reverse turbo bridle works well; it give the feeling of more solid pull in light wind. Replace the original front leg with one approx 15 mm longer. Overhand knot it to the inhaul, leaving about 30mm spare; then re-knot at the tow point. This gives a basis for fine tuning... I'll update this with some definitive dimensions once I've finished experimenting with some new bridle material. In the meantime, making the turbo link long gives the feeling of more power; if it's too long, you get a very rapid transition between on/off power. It's better to have a shorter link which gives a softer transition which is easier to manage.

The ideal glue for carbon; update

We've been consulting with the labs at Loctite to find the best super glue; the problem with conventional super glue is that it becomes brittle over time when exposed to vibration and thermal stress. One solution is Loctite 480; it's black from tiny particles in suspension, which stops any micro-fractures from spreading. Very expensive and rather slow curing, so it's best for use in assembly - I still prefer normal superglue for field repairs. The downside of 480 after a while of using it - it tends to separate in the bottle, so you have to be very careful to get a consistent application. OK for industrial use, but problematic for small scale or domestic use. Latterly I've been using a Loctite for plastics. So far so good.

For any metal parts (like ballast plugs) I've been using the unlikely named Gorilla glue. Again, so far so good.

2005 Specification for the T2 Solo

If you have a Solo and want to bring it up to date, these are the changes you will need to make to pre-2005 kites:

Bridle: Re-knot the bridle as a conventional 3-point. Shorten the outhaul by approx 40mm and shorten the front leg by approx 25mm.

Frame: The spine should be 100cm in 8.0 x 6.0 carbon tube. We use a PWE (pull-wound extrusion) which has an inner glass layer for toughness, but that's not massively critical. The top spreader should be 52cm in 6.0 x 4.5 tube. Bottom spreaders are Avia G-Force SUL cut down to 75cm - and you will need a suitable centre fitting. The original leading edges (SUL/CarbonK or Prosport) should be OK.

Sail: We are using PC31 Icarex for the Standard kite - original Solos used Carrington K42. I haven't experimented with the K42 sail.

Hotrod kit: You can fabricate the kit as follows. Ballast weights are cut from 6.0 mm brass rod. Cut sections approx 8 cm and 12 cm and glue into 6mm nocks. These fit inside the spine.
The Yoyo line is simply a thickish bridle line with a loop at one end and knot at the other, 86 cm long. The cross line fixes at 48 cm - start with that 86 cm long and shorten to taste.
You'll also need some sliders to fit over the top spreader attachments. Use 3mm rod, or cut some plastic sheeting into a strip and insert (thanks to Ed Green for this tip).

All the bits are available from us if you don't fancy the DIY!

Matt's T2 bridle

The standard T2 bridle is capable of many different settings to suit taste, style etc. The standard setting is still my preferred option for team flying, but other bridles have their merits. I'm very impressed by Matt Steven's implementation of the Active bridle system. Click here to download details (Word file).

Icarex colours

Here are the Icarex colours. We don't keep all of them in stock, but can get them quite quickly, subject to supply from Japan. Please check with us before you set your heart on a specific scheme.

Technical

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